Copyright 2001
by Phillip Martin
All rights reserved.
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the Camelot of Africa

Bewkat, Fasil and Daniel

the Coffee Ceremony

GONDARx xI had no idea what there was to see when I arrived in Gondar. x I soon learned that it had been called by some the Camelot of Africa. x Ethiopia had an unbroken dynasty of about 250 kings. xKing Fasil, about number 150 in the bunch, established his kingdom in Gondar. xAlmost everything to see in Gondar revolved around Fasil or one of his immediate successors.

In addition to the castle complex, I visited the Debre Berhan Selassie Church (most famous for the winged angels painted on the ceiling), the royal baths, and the market. xGondar was easily and leisurely done in half a day. xMy taxi driver didn't speak much English, but somewhere along the way he picked up Bewkat, a student with good English and an excellent sense of humor. xHe told all sorts of funny stories about the Seventh Day Adventist school he attended in Addis Ababa. xThe best was when he got in trouble - for studying on the Sabbath. The teachers called him a brat and promised to expel him if he was ever caught again.

Bewkat couldn't believe I'd not attended an Ethiopian coffee ceremony. xSo plans were made for coffee at his grandmother's home. xThe experience was a great chance to see Ethiopian life. Bewkat lived with his grandmother, two younger brothers, and a "lazy uncle". xFasil was about ten with a killer smile. xDaniel was one and cried every time I looked at him. xTheir home was one room partitioned with curtains. x It was kind of like an Ethiopian apartment building because neighbor shared walls on two sides. xThe grandmother was gone to a funeral so a neighbor woman took over the coffee. xUsing a coal pot and metal plate, she first roasted the beans. xThen, she pounded them in a tall, skinny mortar. xThe ground coffee was boiled in a pot that was made of clay. xIt had a round bottom with a narrow spout. xEthiopian coffee was strong. But when grandma and a friend arrived, they said the brew was too weak. xI let the neighbor know that I liked it.