TUGBAKEN.........  What could top an historic night in Tugbaken?  I’d suggest a day of welcoming from the Grebo community.  The village had a chief, but it was his superior, the clan chief who took charge of the ceremony.  Yes, there was kola nut, pepper, water and alcohol.  On this occasion, I knew I could pass on the alcohol.  It meant a little more for everyone else and nobody was offended.  One would think that a second kola nut session was sufficient, but it wasn’t over.  The clan chief very formally presented me with a white chicken feather.  It’s what you do in Africa.  Honored guests are presented with chickens.  I was only given a feather this time because the little critter was already simmering in my meal of cassava leaves.  In my six years of living in Africa, I’ve seen lots of people receive chickens.  However, this was my first time.  I didn’t mind the honor without holding the actual bird.

I’ve always tried to be kind and generous, but I’ve never been able to out-give Africans.  This day was no exception.  You might think two kola ceremonies might be one more than necessary.  You would be right.  And, that was before I found out about the third kola ceremony. 

Yes, there was a third ceremony.

This time it was with the elders from my village of Tugbaken as well as from the neighboring village of Parken, just three minutes away.  There was more singing by delightful women, more kola nut, more pepper and more alcohol.  The clan chief was seated next to me until a local politician showed up.  He was higher in the pecking order and he very gladly translated as the village speaker proceeded with the ceremony (and he drank my alcohol). 

I thought things would wind down as I finished the kola nut, but it was actually just getting started.  The men of the two communities had a live chicken to present.  Two chickens in one day!  As far as I knew, that was just unheard of.  I was told to accept it with both hands and hold it to my forehead to receive the blessing.  It was actually a rooster.  It was explained that you give roosters because they are the first noise you hear in the morning.  If you receive a rooster, others will listen to your wisdom just as they listen to the rooster way too early in the day.

Kola nuts were from the men.  Peppers were from the women.  Since the men presented me with a rooster, the women were not going to be outdone.  I’ve never heard of anyone getting two chickens in one ceremony.  But, I just collected my third rooster of the day.  And, as unbelievable as it may sound, there was more.  They had to gown me.  I received a large African shirt with matching pants made from traditional country cloth.  And, you don’t receive such a gift without wearing it.  I was ushered to my home to change clothes.  When I stepped out of the house, fully adorned with the matching hat, the women of the community sang as they escorted me back to the celebration.  Before the meeting was over, I was formally introduced to every elder and community representative.  I loved the kindness and generosity.  However, under the excess layers in the African heat, I was a sweltering, soaking mess.