One of 5000 temples and pagodas

The cutest of 5000 novices

Bagan is best viewed at sunset.

BAGAN     Bagan, famous for the 5,000 pagodas built there in the 11th and 12th centuries, was a thriving area until it was sacked by Kubla Khan.  Most pagodas were small shrines but several were large temples (or small pyramids).

I bicycled all over Bagan (something possible to do in December -- not July).  I visited the temples, but I did my share of tourist shops, too.  Bagan is known for lacquerware -- trays, cups, vases, jewelry.  The interior base is woven bamboo or wood.  It is lacquered, sanded, and repeated around twenty times until the end product is smooth and then intricately hand etched.  I wasn't impressed with the final product until I saw how it was made.   Then I had to have some, LOTS! 

The prices were sinfully cheap but I could do better than that.  In Burma, you can trade for everything!  I bought one vase for five dollars and a backpack.  I "bought" a huge water jug with my watch and fifteen dollars.  I also traded away my T - shirts for other treasures.  I would have traded more if I only had it.  Wayne Rutherford was sure I was going to trade away the only pair of pants I brought with me.  I was tempted.  In Burma most men wore wrap around skirts called longyis. 

There had been a lot of restoration work since my first visit.   The summer months were too hot to walk so I took a horse cart.

The last time in Bagan, I met a charming boy at sunset on a pagoda. Aung Kyaw Myink even took me to his house.  Well, I had to look him up.  A lot happens between age 11 and 15.  Aung Aung was huge -- but very gentle and polite.  He instantly remembered me.  When I visited before, the family was shy.  This time I was invited back for supper.  Maw Nu Nu, the mother, greeted me warmly and had gifts.  (I was relieved I had presents for Aung Aung!)  I left for the hotel around 9:00 P.M., but Aung Aung and his mother promised to see me off in the morning.  Sure enough, friends awaited at 6:00 A.M. to see me to the airport.