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I
slept beneath these human skulls.

My
blowgun teacher

Proof
that I hit the mark
.
.
.
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MEJONG LONGHOUSE
I knew I wanted to go upriver to visit a village of the indigenous
people. The Dayak lived in longhouses. They were exactly
what they sounded like. Whole villages of people lived in a
long building with each home connected under one roof. They
weren't measured by feet or yards. They were measured in how
many doors each longhouse contained. I stayed in one that was
twenty-six doors long.
The interior of the longhouse
was cut down the middle lengthwise. One half was a commons area
where the people wove, socialized, danced, and displayed the heads
of victims cut off one hundred and fifty years ago. (This was
where I slept with a few dozen skulls over me.) The other half
of the building was the individual home of each family behind those
twenty-six doors. It never occurred to me that they might want
to collect another skull while I slept.
Traditional dancers entertained
in the evening. Because the horned bill bird was special, most
of the dances were slow, graceful, and elegant. Everyone, yes,
everyone, had to dance. We also had to try some rice wine.
I took a sip and passed it to the guide who chugged it.
When the dancing finished,
all the local villagers pulled out their handicrafts. It was
both fascinating and a guilt trip if things were not purchased from
everyone. I bought basketry and was so glad when the sale
ended and the guilt stopped.
Just before leaving Mejong,
an ancient little man with elongated ear lobes and a body covered
with tattoos, appeared in his loin cloth and feathered head gear.
In his hand was a blow gun for he was determined to give me lessons.
I missed the target by a long shot. A second chance was in
order -- and I was able to hit the leaf that was attached to a tree
ten yards away. I was impressed and ran over to take a photo
of my accomplishment. And, I quit while I was ahead.
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