GJIROKASTER CASTLE 1v1 The last time I came to Gjirokaster, it was in the summer. What a difference a few months made! There was snow on the mountain tops and a cool breeze in the air. When Julia Kotoni took me on the hike to the castle, it was so hot that I didn’t feel like exploring. Fourteen years later and in the spring, Julia was married and living in America, but the weather was much cooler. I explored inside the castle and the surrounding area. I knew there were cannons and an NATO jet that some said was shot down over Albania but others claimed simply malfunctioned. But, I didn’t know about the wild flowers, concert area, and charming little café. It's always nice to have a drink in an Albanian castle.

MARTIN