had to go to Shkoder to see the castle and Lake Scutari because they
were in the first book about the elderly decective Mrs. Pollifax.
Shkoder was less than sixty miles from Tirana. It took around three
hours by bus! At their fastest, the buses went 30 m.p.h. and it seemed
like they stopped every kilometer to let people on and off. It was
a trip back in time. Farming was mostly done by hand and animal. There
were not many cars -- most people walked, biked, or rode animal driven
carts. Many older women wore what I imagined to be more traditional
reading Mrs. Pollifax, I was surprised to find the castle was in ruins.
It was still wonderful to see. There were a few passages to explore.
However, the main parts reconstructed were a museum (closed) and a
restaurant (opened). That was all I saw in Shkoder. I walked back
to town, found the first mini-bus back to Tirana, and endured three
more hours, part of the time on a wooden chair back with the luggage.
Upon arrival, I had no idea where I was. I followed the bulk of passengers
going one direction hoping they'd go to the town center for further
connections. It worked.