TIRANA (1995) .x.Of course, when I arrived, I had no idea where I was.x.I stopped a policeman for help with finding a hotel.x.My main concern was how much was a taxi.x.Taxi?x.There was no need for that.x.He blew a whistle, flagged down the first car he saw, and I was taken to the hotel.

I wasn't sure how to find my friends who lived in Tirana when I heard two women on the street speaking Englishx.I asked for help.x. An Albanian RPCV, with a wealth of knowledge, directed me to an expat restaurant hangout.x.At the Stephen Center, the waiter, Koli, was able to draw a map to David's house.x.He wrote in Albanian how to ask for help getting on the proper bus.x.Finally, he said if I couldn't find David, I could stay at his home and he would take me in the morning.x.I was again amazed by Albanian hospitality.

David wasn't home.x.He and his family had just settled down for a meal at the Stephen Center.x.Koli let them know I was in town.x.I was rescued, had a great meal, washed clothes, and finally got some needed rest.

And on the second visit, 14 years later, a lot had changed.