The intricate carved exterior of the Church of the Three Hierarchs looked like lacework with chervons, meanders, and rosettes. If that weren't enough, when completed in 1639, Basil the Wolf had the whole thing gilded in gold. He wanted it to surpass all other churches in splendor. What he made was a treasure too tempting for the Turks to resist. The gold was long gone. And, over the centuries there have also been six earthquakes and a fire. Little wonder the place was under renovation and completely surrounded by scaffolding.

MARTIN