ISTANBUL CARPETS .........I had the worst day in Istanbul. My flight arrival was three and a half hours late. I couldn't get money from any ATM machine and no banks were opened on the weekend. Next, I couldn't find my hotel with the pathetic map provided online. Then, when I was guided to it, I learned that they had lost my reservation. I ended up at a dive for 50 Euros a night at what should have been $20 under normal circumstances. And, I couldn't even pay my bill with my credit card!

The complete highlight of my day centered around my carpet dealers, Asim and Ilyas. They took such care of me! First things first, I had to sit down for some apple tea. Priorities, please! Then, we had to view carpets. They showed me the next one they knew I wanted me to buy. And, they were right.

After this calm-down session, Asim walked me to the hotel to bargain on my rate. Of course, he could do that. They helped me telephone the credit card company and directed me to several more ATM machines until I finally had success (and money for food and lodging). When I weighed the bad against the good, it was a great day. In spite of all the problems, I was so well cared for.

When you leave Turkey with carpets or kilims from Asim and Ilyas, you don't just leave with a souvenir. You leave with the warmth of a Turkish friendship as part of your experience in Istanbul. I wouldn't buy a carpet from anyone else.

MARTIN